AIX EN PROVENCE
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| Author arriving at Aix en Provence Train station from Paris |
I can't remember how far back my dream of seeing Provence was, but the moment my husband and I boarded the fastest possible train from Paris to Aix, I was giddy with excitement, like a little girl about to get her gift from Santa and knowing very well that she’s getting exactly what she's been wishing for for several Christmases past.
It was the last week of May. Perfect time to visit Aix. Spring is ending, summer is just about to begin. The days are long. An eight pm dinner has the sun still up. Temperature ranges from a sweet 12 degrees to a comfortable 25. No summer crowd yet and hotel rates are not yet at their peak. In a few more days, lavender would bloom.
We could not have gotten a more perfect hotel. It’s a charming farmhouse estate three kilometers from the city center.
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| Facade of Le Mas d’ Entremont |
It may not be right smack at the Cours Mirabeau where most of the action is in Aix but Le Mas d’ Entremont was a beauty in itself, it could very well be your destination.
Our rooms were beautifully large and comfortable. We had our own patio with lounging chairs. Inside was a king bed, a big bathroom with a separate tub, shower and toilet area, a small kitchen and a surprise extra room upstairs with two single beds!
The whole property sits on 3.7 acres with six suites, two apartments and 12 rooms. All with a private terrace. Almost half the place is green space with an ornamental lake, pond, cypresses, old trees and sprawling vegetation.
The sun hits open space dramatically on this part of the world. It excites me just to think I’m strolling around where Cezanne was born and lived most of his life.
STROLLING AROUND COURS MIRABEAU
The time we had to pull ourselves out of this charming villa, we strolled around the area of Cours Mirabeau, the famous tree-lined boulevard with cafes, quaint shops and beautiful fountains and has been dubbed by some as Europe’s most enchanting boulevard.
If you google images of Cours Mirabeau, you'll see enchanting photos of a wide boulevard with just-as-wide cobblestone sidewalks covered by a canopy of trees with one massive dramatic fountain and smaller ones at regular intervals.
In this boulevard very few cars tread. It’s mostly foot traffic with tourists and locals leisurely going about their businesses for the day.
The trees were bare during the time of our visit. It may have lessened the romance but not the enchantment, as the sky was stunningly blue, the energy vibrant but sedate, and the small stylish cafés and shops that rested on each side of the boulevard were charmingly inviting.
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| Author with husband in Cours Mirabeau |
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| Facade of Pierre Reboul resto |
SAMPLING A MICHELIN RESTAURANT
Coming in hungry with not many meals to have in this part of France, we opted for a Michelin star restaurant. Pierre Reboul was just off the main boulevard. But there's also the petit Pierre bistro that we missed right beside the main dining area.
The degustation menu was a feast for the eyes. The texture and combination of flavours were enjoyable. But for the price, I couldn't help thinking the more casual bistro would have been a better choice.
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| Degustacion food photos |
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| photo of author in the resto |
It was in Cours Mirabeau that we first tried Amorino Italian gelato and fell in love with it. We had lots of it in this trip. Up until we reached Barcelona to make sure we won't miss it when we return to Manila.
We were having a grand time until we found out that most shops were going to be closed the next day being a Sunday. This broke my heart as we were leaving on Monday and had a full day of nothing to do the next day.
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| The Blue Peugeot that luck sent our way |
But of course there's no such thing as nothing to do while in Aix! We searched for a car -- which was more difficult than we expected as all of the three car rentals in the place had run out of cars to rent out!
Good thing luck was on our side. Just as we were leaving the last car rental in the area with hunched shoulders and long faces, a blue Peugeot pulled up with a couple returning it! The branch was closed already. The attendant just accommodated the returning car and as we looked on like doggies anticipating their treats, the attendant couldn't resist but put in a few minutes overtime to process its rental for us. Dirt and all, we accepted it with open arms. So what if we can't fulfill our dreams of driving in a convertible in the south of France with my hair blowing in my face, we had a car!!!
Where we were going, We didn't know.
The next day, Nicolas, the hotel owner who humbly calls himself the front desk receptionist, had the answer…
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| Author and husband with Nicolas, the front desk and owner of Le Mas d’Entremont |
Lourmarin and Rousillon are not more than two hours away and are rated as two of the top five best villages in France….
(Part 2 to be continued….)
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